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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Given there seem to be issues with the 12v battery failing (likely due to some other issue causing it to completely drain), I thought I’d start a thread just for that topic. I was at the SLC service center today, and saw these on the dash of most of the trucks in the lot being prepped for delivery. I’m assuming that leaving the seatbelt buckled prevents the truck from going to sleep and is one cause of 12v battery drain.

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Why would anyone leave the seat beat buckled any way? Tesla had big problem with 12V battery drain initially also.

Do we really know that different issues are from the 12V battery?
I don’t think the 12v is the root cause, but it appears there’s things that result in phantom drain which completely drains the 12v and causes it to fail, thus bricking the truck. Seat sensors not working, seat belts connected when no one is in the truck both seem to prevent the truck from properly sleeping and thus draining 12v. Other causes likely as well.
 

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The 12 Bolt battery in my Tesla Model 3 needed replacement after 2 years. That has been my experience with cars powered by ICE in Phoenix. Heat is the culprit, whether the battery is placed in a “frunk” or a hot engine bay. You should do better in more moderate climates.
 

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The 12 Bolt battery in my Tesla Model 3 needed replacement after 2 years. That has been my experience with cars powered by ICE in Phoenix. Heat is the culprit, whether the battery is placed in a “frunk” or a hot engine bay. You should do better in more moderate climates.
Strange, I am in Maine with fairly moderate temps. This happened after I had plugged it in Friday night but didn't get back to it til Sunday. 1st time I had left it charging that long, though that may have nothing to do with it.
 

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Wonder if I can put a battery tender lead on those batteries and plug them in every now and then without freaking the truck out. I have a 4 bank battery tender and had my CLS55AMG plugged into 2 of the banks just earlier today since that car gets battery drain from sitting now that I have the R1T. I'm nervous to try on the R1T . . . . .
 

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Wonder if I can put a battery tender lead on those batteries and plug them in every now and then without freaking the truck out. I have a 4 bank battery tender and had my CLS55AMG plugged into 2 of the banks just earlier today since that car gets battery drain from sitting now that I have the R1T. I'm nervous to try on the R1T . . . . .
If you do it would probably be from the jump leads by the hitch receiver.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Indications are that the leads in the hitch area are not directly connected to the battery but Umstead go through some type of controller module. That may prevent them from being used to trickle charge it.

You have to remove the frunk tub to directly access the batteries, so that’s not really a great option either.
 

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Just had my R1T serviced because of the blank screens. All works now and this is what service said:

To the best of our understanding, the concern you were seeing was caused by software. The great thing about our vehicles having such an advanced computer system is the ability to consistently receive software updates for bug fixes and new feature releases as they become available. The technicians who worked on your vehicle completely reinstalled the software and pushed it to the latest software release available. We do not believe hardware was affected, but we replaced the 12V batteries to ensure all possible causes were addressed during the visit.
 

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Indications are that the leads in the hitch area are not directly connected to the battery but Umstead go through some type of controller module. That may prevent them from being used to trickle charge it.

You have to remove the frunk tub to directly access the batteries, so that’s not really a great option either.
Fwiw, I used a jump box to get my doors open when I had the 12v issue.
 

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Hello all.
I just had a 12 volt battery issue with one of these vehicles here at the company I work for. This may cover some topics that are on some previous comments but might be helpful all in one big pile. I apologize for the length of this post, but hopefully it will put some pieces together if somebody is having a version of the same issue. The boss's launch model r1t was parked with 60 miles left on the battery at my shop here in Washington state with a flat tire. It sat not plugged in and without the fob in the vehicle in 20-35 degree weather for about 6 days. When I got time to repair the tire, it would not respond to the fob or any amount of screaming. The door handles were not in a welcoming position nor would the front trunk lid or the charging door respond to any commands. I then pulled the jumper wires out of the round port to the right of the receiver and connected a battery charger to them. Still no luck but I could hear some actuators trying to come to life. I then took a gel cell 12 volt optima battery and connected it to the wires and tried again with the same luck. I put the charger on the battery and walked away for about three hours and when I came back to it with the fob, the door handles opened up and let me in but I couldn't get the charge door or the trunk lid open. The dash display was showing alarms, 0 miles on the odometer and actuators were buzzing due to the low voltage situation I assume. I tried to pop the trunk with the button on the RH side of the grille and the fob with no luck. I left the battery and the charger on a 40 amp charge for a total of about 5 hours that day and had no luck getting the charge door or the trunk open. That night I turned the charger down to 10 amp charge and left it and the optima battery connected all night. The next morning the optima was completely flat and the charger was going full cheese on the meter with no response to the fob again. I removed the optima battery and took it inside and revived it. I reconnected it and tried it all again with the same results. I got on the phone with Rivian support and discussed what the situation was and what I had done. The support representative told me that the 12 volts batteries are dead and need to be replaced at one of their service centers at the tune of $1250 (if I could drive it there, huh...). Also that it would be the customer's cost due to it not being plugged in within that idle timeframe with the state of charge that it was left in. I asked the representative what happens if it gets left at the airport for a 2 week sales trip. The representative said that it needs to be put on a maintenance charge while not in use for a extended duration. I asked how to get the vehicle's parking brakes off to roll it on a trailer and after consulting an associate the representative advised to put the vehicle on rollers to load on a trailer or tow vehicle. After repairing the rear tire, it looks like there is an actuator on the brake caliper that applies at least the rear brakes when in park (fyi).
We were able to get a ex Rivian tech that lives in the area to come by and see what he could do before we hauled it 4.5 hours one way to the closest service center and threw batteries at it. He had better luck getting the trunk open than I did with the fob, but the cabin doors wouldn't open for him. It must only consider me a friend... He pulled the plastic cover just to the rear of the trunk tub off and pulled the cabin air filter plenum off to the side. He removed two 10mm head bolts out that holds the back of the tub in place and shimmed the backside of the tub with a 2x4 forward to give some room to the 12 volt power distribution banks. Once the red plastic covers were removed from those banks, he was able to connect two jumper packs to the banks (see picture below)
Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive tire Automotive exterior Gas

. One to each bank, one on the left and one on the right. This gave enough line voltage to get the controllers to wake up and allow the charge door to open in it's Lambo style. Once it was open, we were able to connect the travel charger and let it sit over the weekend. This gave it enough charge to have everything come on line and drive it into the shop to warm up and charge some more. Even then, it still had a electric motor code, but that went away once it was fully charged and was driven a little bit. The 12 volt batteries seem to be fine and all of the functions seem to be good but time will tell. The owner and I were talking about it and came to the conclusion that it bleeds about 10 miles of charge a day while it sits. Maybe that is better when the batteries are at a higher state of charge, or maybe not.
 

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This is a major problem that Rivian need to address, and they need to be reimbursing those owners who’ve been charged for replacement 12V batteries that 1: ‘died’ because of excess ‘Vampire drain’ with the vehicle, and 2: knowing that these are batteries that can be recharged instead of replaced.

How in the hell can you trust the vehicle not to be DOA when you return from a 2-3 week trip after it’s been parked at the airport, etc. I guess Rivian expect you to leave it at home on the charger and just grab an Uber to the airport.
 
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