[ColeAK]

^^^ this is what I was going to point out as well. Cooler temps (even as warm as ~60F) can limit the battery and the BMS adjusts to say you lost range. However when the battery warms up you gain the lost range back. In my M3 It’s not uncommon for me in the winter at 0F and below to leave work and arrive home 10 miles away and 800 feet up use 500+ Wh/mi and only lose 1-2% from where I started. This is because the battery showed a lower % (or range) as it warms up I’m getting % back and using energy at the same time.

our iPhones do similar things in colder temps. Out skiing we always put phones in inside pockets of our jackets if in outside pockets even if they have 50-70% charge they will turn off and show no power. Warm them back up and back to whatever the batter level was before they got cold.

 

[ColeAK]

I can see how that works for you, having a garaged car. For me it's a bit of a hassle to plug in (car is in the driveway, charging unit is in garage) so I noodle it down to 20% or so and bring it back up to 90% or 100% overnight. Also, in some places electrons are more expensive during the day than at night so it makes sense to charge overnight for that reason. And then we have the urban crowd that may not be able to charge at home, so needs to charge at work or whenever convenient.

To me the big difference is that you just don't have to go to a stupid smelly gas station, usually somewhat out of the way; instead you charge whenever however wherever works for you. If you charge at home or at work, you actually save time charging (vs getting gas). Only on a road trip does it take more time to fuel up an EV. People tend to forget that.

Install a charge connector outside? I have a Tesla wall connector in my garage. My current connector (24’) can reach under my garage door and charge the Tesla outside with the door down but I have to be backed in very close to the door. Looking back I would have installed it directly next to my garage door giving me more inside/outside charge options. The next one I install (rivian or another tesla) will likely be next to the door on the inside wall and I’ll figure out some type of pass through hatch in my garage door.

and doesn’t your ipace have the function to schedule a charge? That is if you have off peak you can plug it in and schedule it to charge at off peak hours?

I don’t have off peak but do have a 7kw solar system. So I try and charge when my panels are in full sun, well the time of year that we have sun in AK.

 

[groon]

Are U parking outside at night and is the morning temp substantially lower than when you parked? It might just be the GoM telling you you have less range since when you start up in the morning its much cooler.

Is the SoC % actually lower?

Good question. Last night after 12 hours of sitting, it went from 30% to 28% (98 to 92 miles of range). Temperature change was 68F to 59F, not appreciable. So 2% soc loss in 12 hours : on order 200 watts of average power use. Gear guard off, proximity unlocking off. So what's it doing? Maybe I'll try turning off wifi tonight to see what happens.

As stated above, ideally this would measured in milliwatts, not hundreds of watts. Hopefully software improvements will be forthcoming...

 

[ColeAK]

Good question. Last night after 12 hours of sitting, it went from 30% to 28% (98 to 92 miles of range). Temperature change was 68F to 59F, not appreciable. So 2% soc loss in 12 hours : on order 200 watts of average power use. Gear guard off, proximity unlocking off. So what's it doing? Maybe I'll try turning off wifi tonight to see what happens.

As stated above, ideally this would measured in milliwatts, not hundreds of watts. Hopefully software improvements will be forthcoming...

Truck was outside? What was the low temp? Was it at 30% when you got home (as in just finished driving). If so battery was warm from driving, then overnight the battery got down in the 50’sF and BMS recognized reduced energy. Did you drive it at 28%. If so how far did you go and how much % did you use? Again, don’t have a rivian yet and have no idea about there BMS, so I’m applying my experience over the last 8 years and 2 Teslas. But I’m still betting temp changes to the battery and not real phantom drain.

 

[Jtgolden]

Okay, to update the OP ... I was gone 10 days and my charge % dropped from 70% to 35% or 3.5% per day. This is the equivalent of ~110 miles. I know some on here do not like the mileage equivalent, but it is a good way to understand the of the amount of energy that disappeared/consumed. The amount of energy to move a 7500 lb vehicle 110 miles at 60-70 mph is tremendous. There is no way that the systems monitoring WIFI and a daily check of the charging status consumed this much energy. Gear Guard was off, climate control was off, no one in the house to accidentally have phone in range to unlock and re-lock etc., in a climate controlled garage. I do not think it is a calibration issue as it took 7-8 hours for the vehicle to charge back to 70%.

Some on here have been borderline insulting (or making fun of) with the EV newbies because of range anxiety, but this is just not right and needs fixed. If going on a trip, I cannot take this vehicle to the airport and leave it as I run the risk I will not be able to get home. That alone means this cannot be my daily ride as I travel extensively.

Hoping for a fix to this soon. I am confident they will figure it out, I just hope it is a software or calibration issue and not a hardware issue.

 

[groon]

Truck was outside? What was the low temp? Was it at 30% when you got home (as in just finished driving). If so battery was warm from driving, then overnight the battery got down in the 50’sF and BMS recognized reduced energy. Did you drive it at 28%. If so how far did you go and how much % did you use? Again, don’t have a rivian yet and have no idea about there BMS, so I’m applying my experience over the last 8 years and 2 Teslas. But I’m still betting temp changes to the battery and not real phantom drain.

yes the truck was outside - low temp was 59F (So Cal, not alaska!). You're correct - it read 30% when I just finished driving so despite the small change in outside temp the battery temp change was probably larger. I drove about 6 miles in the morning after reading 28% to kids school and work and the range estimate was spot on as usual (I didn't check SoC in % when I plugged in at work so can't tell you that).

Thanks for the comments: it makes complete sense that there's a battery temperature dependence to the measured SoC and it's just something to get used to. I will post more if I uncover any other info.

 

[ColeAK]

yes the truck was outside - low temp was 59F (So Cal, not alaska!). You're correct - it read 30% when I just finished driving so despite the small change in outside temp the battery temp change was probably larger. I drove about 6 miles in the morning after reading 28% to kids school and work and the range estimate was spot on as usual (I didn't check SoC in % when I plugged in at work so can't tell you that).

Thanks for the comments: it makes complete sense that there's a battery temperature dependence to the measured SoC and it's just something to get used to. I will post more if I uncover any other info.

Keep watching it. And I’m not saying something odd isn’t going on.

 

[ColeAK]

With this discussion it is important to consider some basic battery chemistry/properties. These batteries operate optimal at a fairly narrow window of ~25-30C (~77-86F). Below that you get a fairly linear decrease capacity ah and volts. Above that and you get more rapid degradation.

When you battery is cold, the battery meters detect less volts (basically potential energy) in the battery so the meter shows a lower % then it would if the battery was in that optimal range above. Basically the chemical reactions are slowed resulting in the energy being available at a slower rate. Also with a cold battery it loses capacity (ah). At 0F a Li battery will only have ~50-60% it’s capacity.

Tesla addresses this with the “snowflake” symbol and “blue bar” on the battery meter. That lets you know when the battery is cold and how much charge/capacity you lost. However when the battery warms up you get the blue bar back. So % isn’t lost it is just temporarily unavailable. Tesla did not have this feature the first few years it came with an OTA update. Heat is generated from driving and charging. EVs have thermal systems (simple ones compared to ICEs) that help heat/cool the battery to function in this optimal range when driving down the road. Most people don’t think about this with EVs but yes EVs need to warm up to get to an optimal temperature range just like ICEs.

disclaimer. I started a bachelors is in engineering, 2.5 years in switched to chemistry to go into medicine. I finished my bachelors ~24 years ago and never worked as an electrician or engineer so my understanding of all this is fairly basic. However I do most of my own electrician work. Installed my own 7kw solar hybrid system on my house with a battery back up.

I regularly make tesla references, let’s face it they are the gold standard for everything EV and at least 3-5 years ahead of everyone else. Also it appears Rivian have benchmarked (copied) much of their concepts, which they should have. I also have a ton of experience with Tesla and none (yet) with Rivian.

 

[sciencegeek]

Okay, to update the OP ... I was gone 10 days and my charge % dropped from 70% to 35% or 3.5% per day.

@Jtgolden , you're absolutely right that this is an insane amount of drain given that the truck is garaged, and even if it were outside that's not what should happen in anything but the most extreme temps. 3.5% of ca 125kWh usable capacity is 4kWh per day. It suggests that the truck does not shut down and if this is not the norm (i.e., others do not also observe this issue) then it's either highly specific settings (which it doesn't sound like you did) or most likely a hardware issue.

 

[WhereItsAt]

Could this simply be a calculation error? Have owners monitored the range/percentage once driving and prior to charging to see if the displayed battery percentage is accurate? It seems to me that the discharge during idle should be minimal and certainly not noticeable overnight. Also curious if preconditioning the car is set automatically unknowingly. Running the hvac will draw down the battery.

 

[thebishman]

@Jtgolden , you're absolutely right that this is an insane amount of drain given that the truck is garaged, and even if it were outside that's not what should happen in anything but the most extreme temps. 3.5% of ca 125kWh usable capacity is 4kWh per day. It suggests that the truck does not shut down and if this is not the norm (i.e., others do not also observe this issue) then it's either highly specific settings (which it doesn't sound like you did) or most likely a hardware issue.

I totally agree that a loss from 70% to 35% in 10 days when the vehicle is parked is indicative of something wrong with the vehicle even if Gear Guard, etc was on, let alone turned off. Time to get the truck checked as it is not performing as it should; I hope!

 

[NY_Rob]

One earlier poster mentioned that by the amount of telemetric data going to and coming from a parked Rivian it's almost like the programmers left the software in debug/verbose mode and shipped the vehicles. Something like that would chew battery power like nothing else. No way Gear Guard is responsible for 10mi/day loss. I have eight 2K HD surveillance cams on a 2,000mAh wall wart, the NVR records to a SSD drive, they both run off a common 1,500mAh wall wart. All in all, Gear Guard should only draw maybe 1kWk/day which would translate to about 1-2mi/day range loss if Gear Guard is configured properly.

 

[hazelnutz18]

My R1T just got a software upgrade today (v2022.15.0) that mentions the drain. For me the drain is intermittent, some nights it happens and others it doesn't. It also doesn't appear to be weather related. I can seem tell when the drain is going to happen (I think). If I plug it into 110V, it'll take 5-6 hours to start adding mileage even though it says its charging. That seems to be an indicator that if I unplug it, it'll start draining. Hopefully it gets fixed! I'll keep track today and see what's lost overnight tonight.

 

[NSNNNTY]

I am losing range, about 3 miles per day or 1% of capacity, for each day my R1T is sitting in the garage not plugged in. Is this normal? Seems to be pretty consistent. Right now, it has to sit for about 2 weeks while I am out of town and it seems I will see quite a drop in range over that time. Fortunately, I left it at 70% charged.

Are others seeing this as well?

I’ve done all the tricks in these forums and from Rivian and from 5 pm Monday to 5pm Tuesday my range dropped from 125 to 80. By the time I got my charger back today at 4pm it was down to 68

Long story but didn’t have my charger after I had to have my 12 volt battery replaced due to a wrap shop draining it during the process. Rivian suggested the door was left open causing the 12 volt to die - No way to verify? Regardless I sent in a service ticket to see if 50 mile loss in 36 hrs is normal. Doesn’t sound like it from what I’m reading.
PS Bluetooth and gear guard off as well as all other precautions

 

[thebishman]

^ that would be an insane amount of SoC lost in 24 hours! How in the hell could you reasonably leave the vehicle at the airport for say 2 weeks and expect it to have any charge left?

 

[CommodoreAmiga]

I’ve done all the tricks in these forums and from Rivian and from 5 pm Monday to 5pm Tuesday my range dropped from 125 to 80. By the time I got my charger back today at 4pm it was down to 68

There's something going on with your truck.

I left my R1T unplugged for 24 hours. It had 190 miles range when I left it. I came back, this morning, and it still showed 190 miles range.

 

[Taake69]

^ that would be an insane amount of SoC lost in 24 hours! How in the hell could you reasonably leave the vehicle at the airport for say 2 weeks and expect it to have any charge left?

^ that would be an insane amount of SoC lost in 24 hours! How in the hell could you reasonably leave the vehicle at the airport for say 2 weeks and expect it to have any charge left?

You can not!! I travel every week, I have tried everything, gear guard is off, proximity is off, you lose 18 miles every 24 hours. A 10 day trip you lose 180 miles, every time!! This is insane, and no way applicable to any other EV. This is defiantly a Rivian Software issue, only thing that helps is to put it into shipping mode which dose a hard shutdown, but you still lose 5 ~ 8 miles ever day. Where is all this electricity going?? I am in Hawaii, so perfect temp for batteries, its in covered parking at the airport and is around 80 during the day in the cab and 70 at night. With everything shutdown for shipping mode how do yo still lose over 5 miles per day???

 

[hazelnutz18]

ng mode how do yo still lose ove

I had this problem when I first took delivery. The software updates helped a lot. Now I lose 2-3 miles per day. Still a lot (and I hope Rivian is working on this!!!) but no where near as bad. Have you installed the updates?

 

[Taake69]

I had this problem when I first took delivery. The software updates helped a lot. Now I lose 2-3 miles per day. Still a lot (and I hope Rivian is working on this!!!) but no where near as bad. Have you installed the updates?

Yes did the update, still lose 7~8 miles over night with everything disabled and 2~3 miles over night if I put it in shipping mode. I don't know which is better shipping mode or camper mode, have not tried the camping mode, but shipping mode requires full reboot on screens so take a minuet or two before you can go, and sometimes takes a minuet or two to get the key fob to work, so not ideal waiting 3 to 5 minutes to get in a car and drive every morning. My HOA requires board approve to add a charger so I have to depend on public charging for 3 or 4 more months

 

[thebishman]

^ I really think you need to elevate this as a warranty concern. There is no way the truck should be using that much power at night when parked.